For those who miss the islands, Aloha Kitchen in Silverdale is a bit of home

Stuck between corporate giants Verizon and Starbucks in a strip mall, a new business opens up and it’s not surprising.

After all, it’s Silverdale, known for the Kitsap Mall and retail giants.

However, at Aloha Kitchen, Allan Hammond recalls fond memories and finds comfort in the food. He’s not alone either, and business is faring well.

“There’s an ambience,” said Hammond, 53, of Bremerton. “They do have the Aloha spirit. It’s like a big extended family.”

The restaurant opened in November and features Hawaiian food prepared by islanders themselves.

Hammond worked and lived in Hawaii for more than two years and fell in love with the local diet. After transferring to the mainland, he had trouble finding a replacement.

“It’s hard to get it, even in Seattle,” he said. “I went in there (Aloha Kitchen) to give them a chance and they had real food.”

Hammond said he has tried everything on the menu, more than 30 plates, at least once.

The food at Aloha Kitchen, he said, brings to mind comforting times on the islands, the best of his life, he recalled.

“Whenever I eat it, it makes me think of that time and makes me feel good about myself in general,” he said.

Lori LaFontaine, the restaurant’s owner, said Hammond’s experience is typical of many of her customers and is intended.

“There’s a connection to culture and memories with food,” she said, adding that many of her returning patrons are members of the military who at one time were stationed in Hawaii.

As far as food is concerned, Lori LaFontaine said she brought with her from the islands a traditional Hawaiian culinary philosophy that is carried out with each plate of food.

“We eat ‘til we’re tired, not ‘til we’re full,” she said, adding that kitchen serves up large portions, another Hawaiian tradition. “That’s how we roll.”

A unique feature at Aloha Kitchen is the versatile menu, one that doesn’t have breakfast, lunch or dinner headings.

Hammond’s choice meal is the Loco Moco — a bowl of white rice covered in brown gravy, a hamburger patty and an egg.

Working late nights and early weekends, he’s had it for breakfast and dinner and described it as the epitome of comfort food.

“It makes me feel good and sticks to my bones all day,” he said.

Opening a new business in a weak economy, especially going into the winter months, is a risk and Lori LaFontaine knew it when she opened her doors in November.

“It felt like it was a gamble,” she said. “I chose to take that gamble and I’m glad I did.”

She said the first months were difficult, but that business has picked up.

“Even when things went bad, people still went out to eat,” she said. “It makes them happy. We have fared well.”

Despite Aloha Kitchen’s locations in the middle of the county’s retail hub, Clayton LaFontaine, Lori’s son, said he’s not really trying to compete with chain restaurants like Applebee’s, Red Robin, and Olive Garden.

He offers an alternative and recognizes it’s becoming increasingly rare for a small, locally owned shop to succeed, especially serving up food many mainland Americans haven’t tried.

“It’s tough to find mom and pop shops around here,” he said.

Clayton LaFontaine said he focuses on running the restaurant in a way that provides a relaxing getaway for patrons, like the islands on which the menu is based.

“It gets them away from their daily grind,” he said.

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